Switzerland

This is the shot I took as we were flying into Switzerland from South Africa. It was magical. I’ve never seen colors like that. Switzerland must have sensed my excitement upon coming back and decided to put on a light show for us. What a wonderful welcome!

There are several international airports to fly into. We chose Zurich as it was a direct flight and it put us just two hours away from Gunten, where we’d be making our homebase. We looked at a ton of houses through Vrbo and Airbnb. We didn’t have a specific town or village in mind when we started our search, we just knew we wanted to be someplace close to Lauterbrunnen and the other beautiful locations in the Jungfrau Region. We finally settled on a charming chalet that sat right on the shore of Lake Thun. In the end it was the view that really sold us.

It’s a pretty straight forward drive from Zurich down to Jungfrau. They have lots of rental car options right at the airport. I would recommend you rent a small car as a lot of roads can be very narrow with lots of twists and turns. Also, parking spaces can be very small as well. As you can probably imagine, we were absolutely beat by the time we finally landed in Zurich after flying 11 hours through the night from Africa. It’s very unfortunate that most places (rentals & hotels), do not have earlier check in times. We’ve found that most rentals are increasingly pushing check-in to somewhere between 3-5pm. It really sucks when you’re just exhausted. We contacted the renters to see if we could possibly check-in early but they couldn’t get the cleaning of the unit completed any earlier. Ugghhhh!

To kill time, we stopped for breakfast along the way in a small village. This is a good point to talk about, breakfast. Through most of Europe you won’t find tons of places that serve a big, traditional style breakfast unless you go to a hotel. They tend to have buffets that can be quite good but very expensive ($20-30) per person. Over the years we’ve learned that if we want more than coffee and a pastry for breakfast, it’s best to buy some groceries and cook it ourselves. With Vic’s dietary restrictions (GF & DF), he can be super limited for breakfast options. So we always buy a lot of eggs, veggies and GF bread when we can find it. This also helps when you want to get an early start to your morning and there’s not much open around you.

Once we got down to Gunten we did a drive by of the chalet that we would be staying in. We could look up and see it from the road. There are tons of places like this around the lakes. You have to climb stairs to get up there and you have to park your car down near the road. Thankfully our chalet had a designated parking spot. Going up and down the stairs was a chore, especially when we came back from a long day of sightseeing. After this we drove around a bit to get a lay of the land. There are tons of little villages in the area. You really can’t go wrong anywhere here. About 15 minutes to the east was Interlaken. This is a much bigger city, if that’s what you’re looking for. We wanted to stay somewhere quiet and peaceful but still close to all the places we wanted to visit. After our drive we found a lovely hotel that boasted a lakeside restaurant. We enjoyed a slow-paced lunch and finally headed back to Gunten. We attempted to take a nap in our car but even out in the countryside there were too many noises. Eventually it was time to check into our chalet…hallelujah!

Our chalet would have been absolutely perfect had it not been for the pesky bugs that decided to show up during our stay. We aren’t squeamish about bugs either, there were just a ton of these flying ant-like insects that showed up a couple days into our stay. We could have contacted Vrbo and requested to move but we loved the view and the location of the chalet. Thankfully, there was only one night that I had to sleep upstairs because there were so many of them flying around downstairs. The view as you can see was just spectacular. We would sit out there in the morning while we ate breakfast, and then again in the afternoon if we were home. At night, the sunset brought all sorts of colors gliding across the lake. This lake turned out to be a wonderful place to swim. It was cold but it was so refreshing on a hot day. There was a spot right across from our chalet that had diving boards and benches to sit lakeside. There was also a floating raft you could swim out to.

We turned in early that night to get ready for our first full day in country. The next morning we made a somewhat early start because our plan was to go up to Schilthorn. This mountain top features a 360 degree view of many mountain tops and it also has a revolving restaurant. We visited this spot on our last visit, and Vic really wanted to go back there. We held off on buying tickets because we didn’t know how crowded it would be. I’m glad we didn’t buy them, because when we arrived to the gondola station that takes you up there, it was packed and the next service was completely booked. If there is someplace you really want to visit, I recommend getting there for the very first lift and make sure you’ve bought tickets ahead of time. We decided to drive on ahead and do a little hiking instead. That morning we got our first look at my beloved Lauterbrunnen. I was so disappointed to see how much it had changed since our last visit in 2017. There were so many new buildings and it was full of tourists. I should have known it wouldn’t be the same but I’d been hoping it would still be the tiny, quiet village that I’d fallen in love with back in 2009. 

Once we saw how busy Lauterbrunnen was, we kept driving out until we reached Stechelberg. We parked the car and went for a hike up to Sefenin Falls. This area was super pretty and I loved the traditional chalets that dotted the countryside. 

After our hike, we decided to head back towards our chalet and find a place for lunch. We found the Park Hotel not even two minutes from our chalet. During the summer they have covered tables set up at the lakes edge. Talk about an incredible spot to have some lunch and enjoy a glass of wine. We loved this place so much, we came back and did it again.

Our next day had an early start so we could be in the first round of people heading up to Jungfraujoch. This saddle sits between Jungfrau and the Mönch in the Bernese Alps. It is famous due to it being the highest accessible point in Europe by railway, sitting at 11,332 feet. The quickest way to get to the top is by first taking the tricable gondola Eiger Express from Grindelwald Terminal. You take this up to the Eiger Glacier Station then change to the Jungfrau Station and board a train to take you the rest of the way up. This will take you just short of an hour to get to the Jungfraujoch. You must book your tickets ahead of time and have a reserved seat on the train. I can’t tell you how important it is to be in the first time slot for the gondola. We watched how incredibly crowded it got the later it was in the morning/afternoon. We were leaving as it got really busy. If you don’t mind crowds, you can come later in the day but expect a lot of long lines. By going in the morning, you can have the Ice Palace practically to yourselves. I recommend making that your first stop after you arrive. From there I would do the walking tour that will take you outside to get views of the Sphinx Observatory and surrounding glaciers and mountains. The gondola ride up is beautiful. I love seeing all the rolling green hills, rocky mountains and lovely chalets.

The Ice Palace is just what it sounds like. Tunnels have been smoothed inside a massive ice cave, along with a bunch of cool sculptures. You can slide around and enjoy the incredible icy spectacles. It’s something very unique to do while visiting the top of Europe. Yes, I licked the wall and no, my tongue didn’t stick.

Make sure you dress appropriately for this outing. It’s very cold inside the Ice Palace (of course), but make sure you have layers that you can remove. Even though there is snow on Jungfraujoch 365 days a year, it can be really, really warm when you walk out on the various viewing platforms and plateaus. I had to undress down to my t-shirt at one point because it was so warm. There are several options for food while you’re up there. We decided to have lunch at Crystal, a nice sit down restaurant. It would have been a lovely meal had it not been for the annoyingly loud family sitting next to us. There were five kids and the mother acted more immature than the little girl who was probably five. It’s embarrassing being associated with Americans who act so poorly in public. Those are the moments I hope people assume we’re Canadian. We were thrilled that they had to rush through their meal to catch a train down the mountain. Once they left we could enjoy the views of the glaciers in peace.

The area up top around the observatory gets very crowded. We snapped a few pictures then headed back inside to do some chocolate shopping at the highest Lindt store in the entire world. I loved seeing all the unusual flavors of truffles that we don’t see here in the states. Of course we had to buy plenty of chocolate for us to snack on for the rest of our trip. As I said, it was getting crowded as we made our way back to the train to head below. We were so glad we were leaving when we did. On the way down, I recommend you make a stop at the Eiger Glacier. You just have to get off the train part way down the mountain. The views from up there are absolutely stunning. You can sit outside at the bar/restaurant and peel off all your layers and enjoy a drink. It was super warm out with nothing but sunshine. 

If you haven’t noticed, there’s a theme with visiting this region in Switzerland. It’s all about the beautiful outdoors. If you aren’t into hiking, biking and spending a lot of times outside, this might not be your cup of tea. We love the mountains as you can probably tell. If museums and palaces are more your speed, you’d probably be better served visiting Lucerne or Zurich. Another thing to mention is the cost. Switzerland is very, very expensive. We knew this going in but it was still painful at times. You can easily spend $100 for a decent lunch. It’s just something to note before booking a trip here. You pay for everything, parking, funiculars, gondolas, etc. You might think that all the outdoors stuff would be free, but you always have to pay to get to the top of the mountain peak. I hope it won’t deter you but just want you to be aware. You should also be aware that it gets very hot in Switzerland during the summer, don’t let the snow covered mountain tops fool you. Yes, it will be cold at high elevations but we were sweating like crazy down in town, so make sure you come prepared with different types of clothing. Also be prepared for bugs, flying gnats especially. We noticed them more this year than we did before.

The next morning we headed to the top of Mt. Niederhorn. It was a very fun but tiring day. First you take a funicular part way up the mountain and then switch over to a gondola to get to the top. This ascent is very typical for the peaks in this region. Funiculars and gondolas are the most common mode of transportation. This is one of the most popular spots in the region for people to paraglide. Everyday we’d see dozens of people floating in the valleys. Talk about an incredible view. We hiked the ridge hoping to see the giant colony of ibex that call this mountain home. Unfortunately we didn’t see any. As with most mountain peaks, you can hike for miles and miles if you like. Ended the outing with some ice cold water and some delicious strawberry cake.

Here’s a link to check out what they typical gondola ride is like. It’s slow and smooth, so no need to worry about it. I don’t love heights but I’ve never had a problem with one of these rides. The views are spectacular. https://youtu.be/rSEw7bngWD8

A favorite memory about Switzerland both past and present is the jingling sound of cowbells. That probably sounds strange but I love it. I enjoyed this during our last two visits. Here’s a link to enjoy the sounds yourself. Please forgive me for saying people were parasailing, I looked it up and discovered that what these people are doing is paragliding. https://youtube.com/shorts/jCFrb-KiBNE?feature=share

The next day was very memorable but not for a good reason. Spent the morning on a beautiful walk through Aareschlucht Gorge. It would have been a perfect day had I not dropped my cellphone in the river. Lesson learned, cold, damp hands don’t hold on to a phone very well….ughhhhhh. The gorge, however, was beautiful and fun to explore. This is a super easy walk, very flat and not strenuous. I did feel a pit in my stomach that wouldn’t go away after my phone was forever lost in the gorge. We had four days left on our trip, so I had to use Vic’s phone to take pictures. It was a long four days being without a phone. Made me realize just how much we depend on our phones, not a good feeling.

On a positive note, we did discover an incredible restaurant out in the countryside that specializes in Rösti. This is a traditional Swiss dish that you can get in an endless number of variations. The main ingredient is crispy potatoes. I got the traditional version with ham, bacon, cheese and fried eggs on top. Vic got the Greek version with pork and tzatziki. They were both delicious.

The following day our mountain top of choice was Harder Kulm. We made sure to be on the first funicular going up that morning. This is a very popular place to visit as it is easily accessible from Interlaken. It has the most spectacular views of Lake Brienz and Lake Thun, along with Mount Eiger, Mönch, and the Jungfrau. The famous outlook point can get incredibly crowded if you go later in the morning/afternoon. The lovely hotel was built in 1908. There’s even a beautiful Bernese Mountain Dog named Adlin who calls the mountain top home and enjoys welcoming all the visitors. The views from here were my favorite out of all the mountain tops we visited.

By the time we left, the top was getting a lot busier and crowded. There was a line at the funicular to go up that went out the building and down the stairs. We walked around Interlaken a bit, enjoying some of the beautiful architecture. We sat by the river, soaking our feet in the icy water. It was a hot day, so it felt wonderful. From here we decided to take the short drive over to Brienz. Lake Brienz gets its turquoise-blue color from tiny, suspended mineral particles known as rock flour (glacial flour). This natural phenomenon is most brilliant during the spring and summer months when glacier melt is at its peak. There are an enormous amount of lovely restaurants that sit right along the lake. We found this one and I was elated to find fondue on their menu. This is another very popular dish in Switzerland. If you like cheese, you must try it. They also had Vic’s favorite cider too.

Brienz is the perfect place to spend a morning or afternoon. Walking along the lake is so calming. There are places to get into the water all along it, and lounge chairs available for use. It was a very hot afternoon, so we soaked our feet again. Later on we finally found a place that still had apfelstrudel (apple strudel) available. This might sound strange, but we went to three other restaurants on our hunt for this delicious dessert before we found one that still had some left. It’s very popular, so your best bet is to get some earlier on in the day. It was already around 2pm by the time we found it. When made and served correctly, it is so yummy. They usually serve it with either a warm vanilla custard sauce or vanilla ice cream. They usually top it with unsweetened whipped cream as well. This version was wonderful and we gobbled it up. We thoroughly enjoyed our afternoon in Brienz.

Later that evening once it started to cool off, we visited the Panorama Bridge. This spot was a five minute drive from our chalet. It was a quiet night and we had the beautiful view all to ourselves. 

The following morning we headed towards Interlaken to pick up the boat we’d reserved for the morning. We’d looked at Lake Thun from all different vantage points, so we figured we should see what the views from the lake were like. It was a lovely day on the water. The only thing that could have been better was the speed of the boat. I literally felt like I could swim faster than it would go. Of course they limit the horse power on boats for tourists because they don’t want you out on the lake acting like an idiot, but it was painfully slow. It was cool seeing our chalet and several places that we’d visited from a different point of view. After slowly cruising around for awhile, we stopped the boat and took turns jumping in the water and swimming. Someone needed to stay onboard because there’s no using anchors on Lake Thun because its too deep. The average depth is 446 feet, with its deepest point reaching 712 feet. I probably don’t need to tell you that it was cold, but it felt amazing on such a hot day. Due to its glacial feed and depth, it never gets warm. We really enjoyed our swim.

On our very last day, we decided to go to the top of Mt. Niesen. This is the pyramid looking peak that we spent so much time looking at  from our chalet. They offer brunch at the top in its only restaurant. We thought that would be a cool thing to do. Unfortunately it was pretty underwhelming. We thought for sure they’d have an egg station but they didn’t. Everything was premade and sitting under warming lamps, so definitely not worth the cost. Another bummer that morning was the reduced visibility. I don’t know if it was smoke from a fire or pollution, but we didn’t have the clarity we’d had on the other mountain tops. The funicular ride was cool, it was very steep. Overall, we could have skipped this one and we wouldn’t have missed out on much.