Japan & a little South Korea
For nearly a decade, I’ve been dreaming of a trip to Japan. There has always been something almost mystical to me when I think of the Japanese culture, from the architecture, to the lush gardens that look like they’d be home to fairy’s. I’ve always felt a pull to go there, and during the last three weeks of April it finally became a reality. It did not disappoint. It is a beautiful country filled with the kindest, most helpful people I’ve ever come across.
We wanted to see as much as possible, so we combined a cruise that went around the entire main island of Honshu, with a couple bonus stops in South Korea, along with an extra four days to explore the capital city of Tokyo. With more than 6000 islands in Japan, we knew we’d have to pick and choose what we wanted to cover. Another reason for including a cruise was not having to drive ourselves on the “wrong” side of the road, and we also didn’t know how much of an issue language and communication would be. Thankfully we came into contact with a lot of people who spoke at least a little bit of English, so this didn’t cause us too much trouble.
A little info about cruising, just in case you’re considering a cruise somewhere down the line. Cruising isn’t for everyone, but there are thousands of people who say it’s the only way they’ll travel. The things I love about cruising- not having to drive, not having to unpack & re-pack your bags every couple days, not having to search for a restaurant when you’re really hungry and being able to see a lot of the most famous/popular sights with someone as a guide who speaks your native tongue. The things I don’t like about cruising- sometimes overly crowded restaurants (buffets), annoying noises at all hours of the day (pick your cabin location wisely), buffet choices can get monotonous, the process of getting off and on the ship everyday can get annoying depending on how the long the customs procedures take.
Most of this is pretty minor, but we did have a major issue this cruise with being directly below a bar area where people were constantly dragging chairs across the deck. The screeching noise was amplified in our cabin and veranda area. Thankfully the bar wasn’t opened late, but the staff started setting up one morning at 3am, which wasn’t pleasant. I can’t stress enough how important it is to look at what is directly above and below you when selecting your cabin. Your best bet is other staterooms and no public areas like bars or restaurants. Okay, enough about cruise ships.
The direct flight to Tokyo took just under twelve hours. I tried to keep myself entertained and awake for the whole thing because we’d be arriving in the early evening, and I wanted to be able to pass out once we got to our hotel. This worked out okay but it sure did make for a very long day of flying. I’d reserved us seats on a bus from Narita Airport to our hotel in downtown Tokyo. The staff there were super organized and it was a cinch to get our bags, go through customs and get loaded on our bus. I’d worried about all this beforehand because I had no idea how long customs would take and if the airport would be easy to maneuver through. Another wonderful thing I noticed on our trip was how efficient, hardworking and organized everyone seems to be in their professions. I didn’t come into contact with a single slacker our entire time there. It seems as though everyone takes their jobs seriously and appreciate being able to earn a living.
After about an hour and a half drive we arrived at the New Otani Tokyo. To say that our hotel was beautiful would be a complete understatement. It isn’t often you find a hotel that sits on 10 acres of perfectly manicured gardens, especially in the middle of a gigantic city. We were so happy with our choice because we would be returning to the same hotel for three nights after our cruise. Within the hotel there were more than 30 places to get food and drinks, that gives you an idea of how massive it is. We stayed in the Executive House Zen and were treated like royalty by all the staff. Again, they were all so friendly, courteous and helpful. Like I’ve mentioned before, having your breakfast included with your room is such a time saver, and most big hotels put out an amazing breakfast buffet. New Otani had four restaurants and room service to pick from for breakfast. We tried all of them and had no complaints.
Time to get cruising
Our first full day in Japan started out with a big breakfast followed by a quick walk around the hotel’s beautiful gardens. A young couple were out on the grounds having their wedding photos taken, so that gives you an idea of just how special the area is. After that we got packed back up and headed down to the lobby hoping our pre-arranged transfer would appear without any issues. It went just as smoothly as our transportation the day before went. An interesting note, many drivers, whether they drive a bus, taxi or private car, wear a suit and tie to work along with white gloves. Talk about classy and unexpected.
It was a about a forty five minute drive to Yokohama Pier from Tokyo. The pier itself is super cool and tons of locals go there to take pictures and watch the giant cruise ships go in and out. We boarded the Celebrity Millennium easily and got all settled. I’m not posting pictures of the actual cruise ship because you can look at million of them on their website if you’re interested. It is a beautiful ship, nicely decorated and in our experience, one of the better cruise lines of the five that we’ve been on.
Shimizu & Mt. Fuji
The first area we visited was Shimizu, with our first stop being Miho Beach which offered incredible views of Mt. Fuji. A walk through the gnarled pines at Nihondaira Park set us up for the incredible views of this epic location. Seeing this massive, snow covered mountain just floating in the clouds was pretty magical. It is one of those things that I’ve always wanted to see in person and the sight of it was spectacular. The black sand beach gave a nod to all the volcanoes throughout the islands.
The rest of our day was jam packed with visits to Shimizu’s Sengen Shrine, Sumpu Castle, Momijiyama Park and the Kunozan Toshogu Shrine. The last shrine was built in 1617 for one of the most famous shōguns in Japan, Tokugawa, ( I learned a shōgun was the commander-in-chief of feudal Japan & also known as the leader of the samurai). We would hear his name over and over when Japan’s history was explained to us. He was responsible for moving the capital from Kyoto to Tokyo.
That afternoon we got our first taste of a traditional Japanese meal, which was awesome. If you aren’t an adventurous eater, or if you don’t like seafood, Japan might be a little tough for you. I personally enjoy trying new food, especially things that I’m not quite sure what they’re. They eat a ton of seafood there too, cooked and raw, so it’s best you know that going in. I was so proud of my husband for being adventurous right alongside me, he’s becoming more of a foodie everyday. There were so many new and unusual things to try with this meal. It was so different from what we’re used to here in the states, but it was so fun. This is also where I got my first green tea (matcha) fix in both sausage and ice cream form. The were both delish! Green tea would be a constant throughout all of Japan.
Kobe & Kyoto
Our next port would be Kobe, with a day spent in the Kyoto area. We started our day with a visit to the famous Kinkaku-ji Temple (Golden Pavilion). It was absolutely beautiful and hard to believe that the entire building was covered in gold leaf. We followed it up with a visit to a Yuzen dyeing studio where we got to create our own works of art. We had a lot of fun doing this and got to be a little creative. This art form goes back to the 17th century when it was first used by Miyazaki Yuzensai in creating intricate fans. Vic loved creating his adorable, purple pandas.
Later that night I was especially excited to see a real-life Geisha performance. If you’ve read the book or seen the movie “Memoirs of a Geisha”, this would probably be something high on your list of things to do. It was really fascinating to chat with the geiko and maiko (there’s a whole fascinating geisha world that consists of those older women who are fully trained, and the junior girls who must go through years and years of training). We also enjoyed a dinner of shabu-shabu (hotpot), which is sort of similar to what you might know as fondue style cooking.
The Master
&
The Student
Osaka & Kochi
Our next area to visit was Kochi and Osaka. We spent the morning at Osaka Castle. Japanese castles are very different than the European ones we visited. Their interiors seem far more functional but still very opulent. The gardens we visited all around the country were beautiful, highly manicured and filled with so many unusual and unfamiliar plants, trees and flowers. I was so excited to see that cherry blossoms were starting to open up on the trees that surrounded the moat at this castle. Outside the castle we found an ice cream shop (of course), and I tried my first cherry blossom ice cream. It was sweet with a light floral flavor, delicious and beautiful to look at.
That afternoon we visited the Sumiyoshi Taisha Shrine, which dates all the way back to 211. Walking around a place that is nearly 2,000 years old is pretty mind-blowing. More than 2 million people visit this shrine around the beginning of each year to pray for health and prosperity to bless them in the year ahead. This was a very serene and relaxed place to spend a few hours.
Melvin Barker
President
Hannah Turner
Designer
In Kochi, our first stop was Kochi Castle. I was surprised that this was the first place we had to take our shoes off. For some reason I had it in my head that we’d have to take our shoes off everywhere we went. This castle required a nice hike to get up to it. It sat on top of a hill with a commanding view of the city below. The inside was filled with steep ladders that you had to use to get from floor to floor. This definitely isn’t a place I would recommend for people who have issues with mobility. There were quite a few older folks who couldn’t manage the ladders and sadly had to turn around and go back outside. The exterior is definitely worth seeing though.
That afternoon, before taking a leisurely stroll on Katsurahama Beach, we enjoyed another colorful lunch with all sorts of unique delicacies. I was often times the guinea pig at our table. People would watch my reaction after I put something in my mouth then determine whether or not they wanted to try something. I enjoyed pretty much everything I tried, there were definitely some textural differences that I wasn’t used to. The Japanese really like to eat things that have gummy or jelly like quality to them. Katsurahama Beach was beautiful, and we adventured out on to the rocks to take in the view. The little pagoda that overlooked the bay was a charming little spot.
Miyajima Island & Hiroshima
Our next day started with a ferry ride to Miyajima Island, which is famous for its floating torii gate that leads into the Itsukushima Shrine which dates back to the 6th century. This island was full of interesting historical buildings, a grand pagoda and a maze of colorful shops and restaurants. We enjoyed the island specialty, maple cakes filled with red bean and matcha paste. We also tried their version of a fried bread ice cream cone.
After returning to the mainland, we made our way to Hiroshima. Visiting Hiroshima was something I both dreaded and was anxious to see. With its horrific but historical past, I didn’t quite know how to feel about going there. I expected it to feel a lot like other places I’d visited where atrocities had taken place, and in that respect I was right. There was a definite sadness that I felt seeing the spot they call the Atomic Bomb Dome, the place where the detonation took place, along with the Peace Memorial Museum. Actually standing in a spot where so many people tragically lost their lives is sobering and slightly overwhelming. All the photos and artifacts you see in the museum remind you just how real the devastation of war was, and continues to be. I didn’t take many photos while we were there, it just didn’t feel right. On a positive note, it did lift my spirits to see how the city has come back to life and is a thriving, beautiful place.
South Korea
Even though we were only in South Korea for a few days, we packed in as much as we could. We spent our first day there on Jeju Island. This tiny island is the vacation spot for many coming from the mainland and from China. They’re known for their black pork, which I declined to try because it still had some hair on it. I’m a pretty adventurous eater, but I draw the line at eating hair. I am so grateful we got the chance to see some of South Korea. It was a beautiful spot with so much to see.
We started the day at Seonimgyo Bridge and from there took a beautiful hike to Cheonjeyeon Falls, or as its name translates, “Pond of the Emperor of Heaven, or “Pond of God”. There are three tiered falls you can climb down to, and the natural pillars formed from volcanic rock are absolutely stunning. They remind me of Giants Causeway in Northern Ireland. The water is so clear that you can see the cliffs mirrored in its reflection. I would have loved to spend half the day exploring the different falls at a leisurely pace, but we had much more to see.
It was just a short walk from Seonimgyo Bridge to Yomiji Botanical Garden. I enjoyed seeing all the different flowers, especially the ultra bright collection of colors. Following the garden we enjoyed a traditional Korean lunch of beef bulgogi and kimchi (in this case it was fermented cabbage). The kimchi was my favorite part of the meal. It had just the right amount of tang and heat.
After lunch we continued on to what turned out to be my favorite temple of the entire trip. The Yakcheonsa Buddhist Temple might just be the most ornate, colorful and intricately decorated places I’ve ever seen. Though not an ancient temple, its out of this world decorations more than make up for the recency of its creation. The walk through the tangerine trees was lovely, and the outside of the temple was pretty fascinating to look at.
We just had no idea what we were in store for on the inside. Pictures don’t do it justice. Everywhere you look there is a new design, color or object to catch your interest. The giant Buddha is the centerpiece within the main hall but be sure not to miss the area that houses thousands of tiny golden statues. Make sure to check out every floor because it gives you a different angle to see things and there are unique things in every space. There is also a shrine built inside a cave directly behind the main temple building. If you ever travel to Jeju Island, this is one place you really must see for yourself.
Busan, South Korea
The next day we headed to Busan. This is the second largest city in South Korea. That morning we enjoyed the walk to APEC (Asia-Pacific Economic Cooperation) House followed by a visit to a local market. There sure were some interesting food items on display. You don’t see a whole squid on the grill everyday. I love discovering new & unusual food to try. I loved the little old lady selling kimchi, she looked a hundred years old. Candied sardines, or cooked beetles anyone?
That afternoon we visited Haedong Yonggungsa Temple which dates all the way back to 1376. It is spread out across cliffs that sit at the edge of the East Sea. You could spend hours wandering through all the different buildings and shrines that are built there.
Although our visit to South Korea was brief, I was very happy to get the chance to see what I did. Back in Japan, our next stop was Hakodate. We explored a massive seafood market that had more than 400 stalls. This is where I tried squid ink ice cream. It was delicious but the color made it look like you were eating charcoal. It was sweet with just a little saltiness. This is also where we tried and bought some squid jerky. Crab is a specialty of the area and I couldn’t believe how massive they were. I bet they were delicious.
Later that afternoon we visited Mt. Hakodate via a cable car to take in the commanding views of the city. Afterwards we went up the 351 foot tower to see Goryokaku Park and the remains of Japan’s first western-style fort.
Aomori & Hirosaki
Getting to see the cherry blossoms in full bloom has always been something I’d hoped to see someday. We’d crossed our fingers and hoped our timing would work out. Hirosaki Park is one of the most famous places in all of Japan to see the sakura (cherry blossoms). The day we visited the park, it was deemed the full bloom day, and I could barely contain my excitement. The park takes on an almost fairy tale feeling with the white and pink blooms everywhere you look. I would have loved to sit beneath the blossoming trees to enjoy a leisurely picnic, which is one the preferred ways the locals do it. This was for sure one of my favorite places on our trip.
Yokohama
Our last stop before heading to Tokyo was in Yokohama. This is the second largest city in Japan. We enjoyed the day exploring a diverse list of locations. Our first stop was at Sankeien Park. Everything was so green and vibrant. There were only a handful of other people there, so we took our time and enjoyed the solitude. While wandering around, we discovered you could walk right from Sankeien to Hommokusannotani Park. We loved having both places pretty much to ourselves.
After visiting both parks we headed over to Chinatown (yep, Chinatown in Japan). This small area was filled to the brim with all sorts of shops and restaurants featuring Chinese foods and goods. We munched on some of our favorite snacks, goma dango (fried sesame balls), while we explored the winding streets. We enjoyed a nice walk back to the pier, taking in the beautiful city park along the way.
Tokyo
We wrapped up this amazing trip with three days in Tokyo. The New Otani once again proved to be an outstanding hotel. The service, friendliness and the hardworking professionals there was so impressive. After getting checked back into the hotel we decided to tackle the Tokyo train system. I’d read a lot about it before our trip, trying to get a handle on what it might be like. Turned out to not be too bad. We were lucky, we never had to take it during rush hour. Once you knew where you were going, it was pretty easy.
The picture below gives you an idea of how many lines there were on just one particular system. I would highly recommend getting a prepaid train card. That way you don’t have to mess with the ticket boxes each time, you can just insert your card and go. We paid just $16 each for unlimited rides for a 72hr period, not bad at all. Our first ride took us to Shibuya where we got to see the busiest pedestrian intersection in the world. The picture below is during non-rush hour, so I can only imagine what it’s like at 6pm.
We had one of our most enjoyable meals at an unusual place while exploring Shibuya. We of course wanted to try some ramen while we were there, and this tiny spot offered us a very unique experience. We found a line of people leading down into a basement, where you’d place your order on a vending machine sort of thing. After ordering, you were given a sheet to fill out where you picked how you wanted every thing prepared (noodle firmness, broth richness, heat, etc.). There were only 20 seats in the entire restaurant and they were situated in a line with little privacy walls separating each person. It was like they wanted you to feel free to slurp to your hearts content.
Once we were seated, someone behind a little sliding door presented you with an egg for you to peel then out came the steaming bowl of broth and noodles, with another bowl containing the pork, mushrooms and seaweed. You then proceeded to eat it however you wanted. It was so delicious. The broth was so savory and rich and the noodles had the perfect chew. This was everything I’d hoped authentic Japanese ramen would be. Such a fun experience.
After our delicious meal we walked over to the Harajuku Owl Cafe to have our up close & personal owl encounter. This was a very different animal experience where we got to hold, pet and feed a dozen different owls from around the globe. It was so interesting to learn what each owl liked. Some only liked the tops of their head to be stroked, others liked it on their chests and still others liked their faces to be rubbed. They each had their own personality too, some really liked attention while others didn’t. This is definitely something to check out if you’re an animal lover.
Our next day in Tokyo brought all sorts of new adventures. That morning we met with a private tour guide who took us to an early morning sumo practice. I really didn’t know what to expect and I was blown away by how strong these giant men are, and just how hard the coaches work them. Every single one of them was covered with a thick layer and sweat and dirt by the time the practice was over. It was really cool to sit literally a few feet away from them as they flung, pushed and twisted each other around the ring. It was super interesting to learn that there are only 640 professional sumo wrestlers in all of Japan and only 42 among the highest category. If you’re into sports or athletics of any kind, I would definitely try to attend one of these events.
Following the sumo practice, our tour guide was kind enough to take us to the Tokyo Dome and help us get tickets for that afternoons Tokyo Giants baseball game. We experienced two firsts, Japanese baseball and eating at the Shake Shack. I was surprised and very happy to sit down and enjoy a delicious burger and fries before the game. It was really interesting to see this kind of sporting event in a place outside the U.S. Seeing steamed edamame and bento boxes full of sushi at the concession stands was certainly something different. They also had bands set up in the crowds to get the fans amped up cheering and singing.
On our last day in Japan, we started our morning off with a visit to the Imperial Palace. You can’t actually go inside the palace, but you can explore the massive park that lies beyond the giant moat and rock wall that surrounds it. We were there the day before the new emperor’s coronation, so the place was all abuzz with activity. Following that we went to the Yushukan War Museum. They did an incredible job of breaking down the complete history of Japan, including its many wars from the beginning up to present day.
For our last night in Japan, we did something a little unusual. We had dinner at Akasaka Ninja. Once we arrived, we were escorted through tunnels, secret doors, over bridges and through complete darkness by a masked ninja. Once we’d made it deep into the belly of what felt like a dungeon, we were shown to our table inside a small room carved into a cave. Our server was of course a ninja, and she and her co-workers spent the next two hours serving us nine different courses. There were all sorts if unusual things, often times food disguised to look like something else. We even had a ninja magician come by and show us some tricks. Some might think it was a little on the kitchy side, but we had a good time and enjoyed it as something we’d never done before, and most likely would never have the chance to do again.
Our flight back to Denver didn’t leave until late afternoon, so we were able to squeeze in one more round of sushi before we headed to the airport. I had salmon four ways, while my husband had an assortment of tuna. It was a delicious meal to tide us over for the afternoon. The sushi in Japan is a little different than what you typically see in the U.S. They definitely eat more fish skin than what I was accustomed to and they seem to leave the blood line intact rather than remove it. You also see a lot more nigiri and sashimi rather than rolls.
Food, glorious food
Okay, so I had some interesting takeaways as far as the food in Japan goes. If you don’t like seafood you might struggle a bit. Seafood is everywhere and featured in lots & lots of dishes. They eat it there for breakfast, lunch and dinner. That’s not to say that there aren’t other options, because there are. I just think its good info to have before you visit. Octopus tentacles on a stick are a good example of an everyday street snack you might find.
The beef in Japan is incredible. I’ve heard a lot of chatter about Wagyu beef from Japan over the years but I never really gave it much credence. We got to enjoy superb, buttery, melt in your mouth beef dishes on three or four occasions and it was perfection. Make sure you enjoy at least one Wagyu filet if you ever visit Japan. I promise it will be worth every penny.
The ice cream flavors available in Japan are amazing. Granted there are some weird ones (hello squid ink), but every single one I tried was so good, and believe me a tried a lot of different ones, things like matcha, black sesame, cantaloupe, apple. There was one day that we had ice cream three times. What can I say, I’m a sucker for ice cream.
Another thing I came to learn and appreciate is that they love green tea or matcha (green tea powder) in just about everything. My favorites were the ice cream and Kit Kats. The matcha sausage was weird looking but tasted pretty good.
The vending machines in Japan are pretty epic, you can get just about anything out of them and you can find them everywhere. The picture below is just a tiny sampling of what they offer. I especially liked that they sold things like creamy corn soup in one of the machines we saw. Overall, tons of options and lots of cool things to try. Japan is definitely a place to be adventurous and try things you’ve never even seen or heard of before.
All in all, our three weeks in Japan and South Korea were incredible. The country is so beautiful and so clean. You’d never know that so many people live in such a small space. The people were so kind, helpful and professional. It was really nice to see how people took such pride in their work, no matter what their profession was. We saw this time and time again, and even continued to experience it once we returned home.
We realized after we got through security at the airport coming home, that we’d left our iPad on the bus. We thought for sure we could kiss it goodbye. When we got back to Colorado, I emailed the bus company and explained what happened. Within a few hours I had a response saying that they found it and could mail it back to us. We had our iPad back in our possession in less than a week. That whole exchange really captures just what honest, helpful and hardworking people they’re. If you ever have the opportunity to visit Japan, definitely jump at the chance, you won’t regret it.
ありがとうございました