Paris
Jes ne se quoi
After spending ten glorious days on the French Riviera, we packed our bags and headed north to Paris. We’d debated back and forth as to whether we should do Paris first followed by a more relaxing visit to Nice, but the decision was made for us when we realized we could attend the French Open if we went to Paris for the second half of our vacation. We’d always wanted to hit one of the major tournaments and what better place than Paris.
There is so much to see and do in the City of Lights. It was definitely faster paced than the riviera but we gave ourselves plenty of time to see everything without feeling too rushed. We discovered that Paris is definitely a city you can visit and rely solely on public transportation to get around. I’d been to Paris a decade earlier and clearly remembered what a nightmare traffic was, so we quickly decided we didn’t want to drive a rental car. The train system there is awesome and so easy to get a hang of. We pretty much used it every day. The only time we used an uber or taxi was going to and from the airport and when we went to Versailles.
Picking your hotel location is crucial. We wanted to be central to many sight seeing spots and we also wanted a train station close by. We finally settled on La Clef Tour Eiffel. As the name suggests, we were just a five minute stroll from the Eiffel Tower and two minutes from a train station. The hotel was very modern, very different from where we stayed in Nice. A perk we thoroughly enjoyed was the included breakfast buffet. It was so nice being able to simply go downstairs and enjoy a hearty breakfast without leaving our hotel, paying tons of extra or having to figure out where to go.
The Eiffel Tower
Construction completed in 1889
(took just over 2 years to complete)
My husband summed things up pretty nicely after visiting the Eiffel Tower. He said that he hadn’t expected to enjoy it so much and he found himself sort of in awe of it. You grow up seeing the Eiffel Tower in tons of movies but when you see it for the first time in person, it blows you away. The sheer size of it is pretty mind boggling. Having seen it before, I didn’t expect it to be so interesting the second time around. I couldn’t have been more wrong.
We spent our first full day in Paris exploring the Eiffel Tower in all ways possible. We started by walking around the grounds that surround it. There are just acres and acres of gardens and of course, the famous Trocadéro with its fountains and the fantastic full views of the tower. After enjoying the sights around it, we took a tiny, private lift to the second floor where we enjoyed a scrumptious three course lunch at Restaurant Le Jules Verne. The views were amazing, the service impeccable and the food was both beautiful and delicious. My only complaint was that we should have given ourselves more time, an hour and a half just wasn’t enough.
After lunch we took a tour of the actual tower. Make sure you book your tickets ahead of time for a specified tour time. This will save you having to stand in line just to get tickets. You still have to wait in line to go through security and take the lifts to the various floors, but the line to buy tickets is really, really long and they tend to sell out. Anytime you can buy tickets on-line, do it. Always look for specific entrance or tour time tickets as well, this can really help you skip lines or wait far less.
Learning about how the tower was constructed and seeing a visual history of it was so interesting. You can take as little or as long as you want making your way around the different floors. You can also climb up and down the tower using stairs. We walked down the stairs and it made us slightly dizzy going around and around. Observing how intricate the construction is really gave us such an appreciation for just how special the Eiffel Tower is. Definitely give yourself the better part of day to really explore and see everything without being too rushed.
Arc de Triomphe
Took 30 years to construct- 1806 to 1836
(changes in power & conflicting ideas caused the hold up)
The Arche de Triomphe is a great place to spend an hour or two. Make sure to get your tickets in advance on-line, you’ll wait in a long line otherwise. Spend some time walking around the outside. The construction and artwork is amazing. Make sure you stand underneath the arc and look straight up, it is pretty fascinating. The views from the very top are pretty but nothing like what you see from the top of the Eiffel Tower. Make sure you come prepared to climb stairs, or you can wait in line for the elevator.
Inside the arc you’ll get to learn about its history which is really interesting. I won’t ruin it for you, but it took a great deal of time and effort to get the arc constructed. If you time your visit just right, you can see the changing of the guards at 6:30pm near the flame of the remembrance at the arc’s base. Watch out for the crazy traffic that goes around the arc and make sure you use the underground walkway to get there. Don’t try crossing the street through the traffic circle.
Le Catacombes de Paris
Quite macabre but so worth it
The catacombs were originally underground quarries. This bizarre spot became the largest underground necropolis in 1786 due to overcrowding in cemeteries surrounding Paris. Bodies were relocated here until 1788 then again from 1842 and 1860. There are more than 6 million bodies entombed at this location alone. It was very unusual to be completely surrounded by death, unlike anything I’d ever experienced. As you can see, bodies were lain in intricate designs so visitors might feel as though they’re looking at a work of art and not just human remains.
I was skeptical going in, wondering if it would just be too morbid and disturbing. After the initial shock, it really was quite fascinating. Make sure you get headphones so you can learn about its history as you walk through. This is definitely worth the trip. The lines to get in are outrageous if you don’t pre-book. Make sure you get tickets for a specific entry time, and when you get there, go up front and find out which line you need to be in. The general admittance line was around the block when we arrived. Thank goodness we bought our tickets on-line well before our trip.
Another thing to keep in mind is closures. We had this happen twice while we were in Paris. The catacombs and the Garnier Opera House were both closed due to worker strikes and a live performance, so we had to go back on a different date. This is a good reason to make sure you give yourself at least a day or two where you don’t really have anything specific planned. We were easily able to shuffle our schedule around and not miss out on anything we wanted to see.
Notre Dame Cathedral
You decide if you want to go inside
After many years of traveling, we’ve become a bit jaded when it comes to cathedrals. Not to say we don’t enjoy visiting them and admiring them from the outside, we just don’t spend the time in line anymore to go inside. I know, some of you’re probably disgusted to hear this. We’ve just seen the inside of so many cathedrals that we’re burnt out. Notre Dame is stunning on the outside with its hundreds, if not thousands of sculptures. Definitely worth a stroll around, or if you like, payment and a wait in line to see the inside as well. If you’ve not seen many cathedrals, I would for sure go inside on this one. The weather was beautiful so we took a nice long stroll around the cathedral and grounds, then headed over one of the bridges that crosses the River Seine for a relaxing lunch.
The Pantheon
Spectacular inside & out
Th Pantheon was completed in 1790 as a church dedicated to St. Genevieve. Over the centuries it became a mausoleum, holding the remains of many renown French citizens such as Victor Hugo and Alexandre Dumas. In addition to many beautiful works of art, it also contains a Foucault pendulum that demonstrates the rotation of the earth.
The structure itself was very beautiful from the outside but we had no idea what to expect on the inside. What struck us first was just how massive it is. The picture of me in front of the doors gives you an idea of its size. The decorative ceilings are just stunning. I had to give my neck a rest because I was looking up so much. The paintings inside are massive and contain so much detail. If you’re into art, you could spend hours and hours here. The crypt section beneath was very austere and almost modern looking.
I highly recommend you take a short walk to the Luxembourg Palace & Gardens from the Pantheon, it will take you less than ten minutes. The grounds are beautiful and very popular with the locals. We went there on a weekend and the lawns were filled with people lounging on blankets enjoying a picnic or a bottle of wine. It is a great place to take a stroll or simply sit and enjoy the views. See picture below of the palace.
The Mighty Louvre
In a word, magnificent
You may have heard this before but I figured I’d say it again, you could easily spend an entire week in the Louvre if you wanted to. It is massive. The first time I went there, I was under the impression that it was just one big building, when in fact, it is spread over an entire complex. There is so much to see there that it can be a little overwhelming. We got lost more than once trying to find a specific work of art. Get your tickets ahead of time, and for the first available time period if possible. I would recommend you get there as soon as they open to avoid the huge crowds, it gets busy early on and the crowds only add to the chaos.
If you want to see the Mona Lisa and Venus de Milo, go directly to those two pieces first. You’ll know you’re in the right place when you start seeing the crowds. You can’t get very close to the Mona Lisa, our picture below was as close as we could get. The variety or art is remarkable, you can pretty much find any sort of art you’re interested in. My favorite artist, Giovanni Panini has six or seven pieces featured, which I loved.
I would say my very favorite part was walking through the Napoleon III apartments. This used to be the emperor’s residence way back before it became a museum. His apartments are jaw dropping beautiful. They’re just so over the top and luxurious. Definitely give yourself time to walk through them. We didn’t even know that part existed, we happened upon it totally by mistake when we got lost. Thankfully we found them early on so they weren’t crowded.
Also make sure you allow yourself plenty of time to enjoy the pyramid structure outside, it is very beautiful, and so unique. We discovered a little cafe that ran along one of the terraces. It was the perfect place to sit down, relax and enjoy some delicious pastries and sandwiches. From there we had an amazing view of the pyramid and you can see all the connected buildings that make up the Louvre. A visit to the Louvre is truly a once in a lifetime experience!
Luxor Obelisk & Fontaines de la Concorde
Fun fact, for fans of the movie The Devil Wears Prada, the fountain pictured above is where Andy threw her cell phone near the end of the movie.
By the time your day at the Louvre is finished, you’ll probably be beat, but if you have just a little energy left in the reserves, I suggest you take a stroll through the Jardin des Tuileries. This is a beautiful park that will lead you straight to the Luxor Obelisk and Fountains of the Concorde.
This incredible obelisk is over 3,300 years old and was given as a gift from Egypt to France back in 1833. Standing in front of something this ancient and seeing first hand how well it has stood up to the hand of time is pretty special. Definitely worth a short stop to wrap up a full day of sightseeing.
The Masterpiece, Palace of Versailles
To fully see Versailles, you need to plan on spending a full day. It is a 35 minute drive from Paris. We took an uber, but there are trains that get there, you just have to switch trains a time or two. Versailles was originally a small hunting lodge but Louis XIV decided to move the government and court to its location in 1682. A succession of kings continued to embellish and add to it up until the French Revolution in 1789.
Today the palace contains 2,300 rooms and the estate is spread out over 800 hectares. Its sheer size is just one reason to give yourself an entire day to explore. You can visit the palace, the Trianon Estate, the park, the gardens and several other buildings in the Gallery of Coaches.
My husband will tell you that he thought the Garnier Opera House was more beautiful than Versailles, but I think his impression was biased because when we finally got inside the palace it was totally crowded and then it proceeded to rain on us for the next hour or so. Thankfully the rain subsided and after a lunch break and of course, delicious pastries at Restaurant Angelina, we were ready to go again.
Inside the palace, the must see spots are The Hall of Mirrors with its 357 mirrors and exquisite ceiling of art, and The Gallery of Great Battles which shows nearly 15 centuries of French military victories. The Estate of Trianon has The Grand Trianon, Petite Trianon and the Queen’s Hamlet. This area was built as a place of escape for the kings, queens and mistresses. It was a location that provided them some privacy and a break from the trying times at court. This estate was most closely associated with Queen Marie-Antoinette, who used it as a refuge from life at the palace.
The parks and gardens are immaculate with dozens of fountains. Make sure to check the schedule so you can catch at least a couple of the fountain shows that are set to music. Versailles is a perfect example of French opulence, stemming from Louis XIV, whom was referred to as the Sun King, no surprise there. Book your tickets on-line ahead of time with a specific tour time. If you don’t, you can expect to wait in line for hours. What a wonderful day!
Garnier Opéra House
Also known as the Palais Garnier
Construction of this beautiful building began in 1861. We were more than pleasantly surprised when we discovered just how gorgeous it is both inside and out. We found it very strange that you don’t see this pop up more when looking for places to visit in Paris. It gives Versailles a real run for its money when it comes to its decadent and stunning design.
The Grand Foyer (top photo) is very similar to the Hall of Mirrors at Versailles. One thing that definitely outdid Versailles was the lack of crowds. We were mostly alone in every spot we explored. You didn’t have to wiggle your way through crowds, which was so nice. If you buy your ticket and go as soon as they open, you may just have the entire place to yourself.
This is still a fully operating opera house, so if you’re so inclined you can catch a performance in the luxurious auditorium. Definitely worth a visit. Prepare to be be blown away.
Sacré-Cœur Basilica
Sacred Heart
This Roman Catholic church was built in 1914. It is a real sight to see from its vantage point on top of a hill overlooking Paris. It is a bit of a climb to get up the hill but there is also an elevator for a small fee if you don’t want to walk it.
We visited the basilica after the opera house then enjoyed a leisurely lunch in the little neighborhood at the bottom of the hill. This is a beautiful spot to spend an hour or two. Lots of people go there to enjoy the view of the church and then sit on the steps that overlook the city.
Moulin Rouge
So I was very skeptical about how much I’d actually enjoy going to a show at the Moulin Rouge. I knew my husband would enjoy it, because lets face it, what man doesn’t enjoy skimpy costumes on young, svelte dancers? I expected it to be all about the semi-nudity and nothing to do with artistry. Thankfully, I was pleasantly surprised on all counts.
I enjoyed everything, the ambiance, the costumes, the dancing and the music. It is definitely a touristy location, you don’t see a whole lot of locals taking in a show, but it was a fun night out. If you’ve ever wanted to see a cabaret/burlesque type show, I would highly recommend. it. It was done with class and lacked the raunchiness I was expecting.
The French Open
Roland Garros
My husband was definitely more excited about going to the French Open than I was. I thought it would be cool but I didn’t know how I’d feel spending two entire days watching tennis. Turned out to be an awesome experience.
Our first day was blistering hot with no relief what so ever, hence the giant floppy hat I ended up buying. We were roasting in our amazing seats watching Rafa Nadal. Thankfully it cooled down a little when we got to see Serena Williams in her first big match since having her baby. I went into it wanting to see Serena & Rafa, so after day one I was one happy camper, despite being absolutely exhausted from such a long day in the sun.
We’d decided to try and sell the full day package we had the next day because we were just worn out. Thankfully that didn’t work out, because we ended up having a wonderful second day. We started with an early entrance to the park before it opened to regular ticket holders. We had breakfast with six or seven of the French players then they accompanied us on a tour of the entire complex. It was awesome to get to see behind the scenes. We got to see every court and we even went underneath one to watch players warming up right at eye level. We also got to see Novak Djokovic prepping for his upcoming match.
Included with our package was all the food and drinks we wanted all day long. It was really great food too, not your average sports arena junk. I would definitely recommend an all-inclusive package to anyone attending a grand slam. It was great not having to stand in line for food or bathrooms, and we always had a private place to go to when ever we needed a break. Definitely a couple memorable days.
Dôme des Invalides and Napoléon’s Tomb
Final resting place of Napoleon Bonaparte
Both impressive inside and out, the final resting place of Napoleon I is quite beautiful. Construction began on the royal chapel in 1677 and Napoleon I’s remains were interred there in 1861, nearly 40 years after his death.
Napoleon died in 1821 while exiled on the island of St Helena,which lies just west of the African continent. We’ve always been told that Napoleon was extremely short, even for a man in the 1800’s. There seems to be some debate over how tall he was exactly.
If his tomb is any indication, I’d guess he was barely 5 feet. You know what they say, little man…giant tomb. All jokes aside, his tomb and all the artwork within the dome are exquisite to look at. Absolutely worth a visit.
Musée de l’Armée
The Army Museum
Just adjacent to the Dôme des Invalides is the Army Museum. For any military or history buffs, this is a must see. In and around the museum you’ll see a vast array of artillery, weapons, armor and uniforms on display.
My favorite part was the Modern Department, which broke down all the different reigns from Louis XIV to Napoleon III, 1643 – 1870. There are also large sections dedicated to the two world wars and Charles de Gaulle.
I found the two paintings of Napoleon very interesting. The one on the left depicts when he first became emperor of France and the one on the right is just before his exile. Interesting to see the toll his eleven year reign took on him. You could certainly spend an entire day at the museum if that is an area of interest to you.
Our final night in Paris
Au revoir
We spent our final night in Paris with a little impromptu picnic. We watched the sun go down and the twinkling lights on the tower come alive. I’d say it was a very fitting way to end an amazing trip to France.
No trip would be complete without the glorious food…Paris didn’t disappoint
Yum, yum and yum!
We continued our delicious trend of trying new pastries and desserts, and even a few new entree’s as we explored Paris. Of course, the pastries reigned supreme, I mean how could they not. The French really know how to perfect something and let it speak for itself. I had to enjoy at least one bowl of escargot, Vic flat out refused to try it. I guess eating snails is not appealing to everyone, I get it. The croissants and pain au chocolat were on point and continued to be our go to when ever we needed to grab a quick snack. We did come across our good friend Amorino for gelato, but we went there far less frequently than we did in Nice. If I had to describe the food scene in Paris using only three words, I would say it is rich, beautiful and satisfying! Bon Appétit !
