Spain
13-24 May 2024
Seville & Barcelona
After two glorious weeks in Portugal, we packed our bags and boarded the short flight to Seville, Spain. We decided to stay in the center of old downtown, which was great for easy access to all the sights. Unfortunately our villa had a bar right across from it. The Friday night we were there, it stayed open until 5am and there were tons of people out on the street singing, yelling, fighting, etc. Our villa was in a building that was almost 120 years old. From the pictures online it looked beautifully renovated and we were so excited to stay there. Unfortunately, it wasn’t as nice as we thought. The lights constantly flickered and on more than one occasion sparks flew out when I hit the light switch. Needless to say, it wasn’t our favorite. Just wanted to get that little bit of negative out. You can do tons of research and sometimes things just aren’t what you thought they’d be. Thankfully, that was the only negative during our time in Seville.
Seville
What a beautiful city Seville is. Out of all the places I’ve travelled, this had the most beautiful architecture I’d ever seen. I’m not exaggerating when I say that there is something beautiful to look at on every street. The city is just bursting with spectacular buildings, gardens and plaza’s.
Upon arrival we got settled into our villa and then took a walk around the neighborhood. We had tons of restaurants and shops nearby. We popped into a cute taverna and had our first Spanish meal. If you ever go to Spain, you’ll see Jamón Ibérico (Iberico ham) on just about every menu. It is a very popular staple in the Spanish diet. Many restaurants will have the entire leg displayed in their restaurant. We ate it a lot during our stay, curious to see how different places used and prepared it. My number one recommendation when it comes to eating it, only order it in raw preparations. It gets incredibly tough when cooked and isn’t nearly as tasty. To me, it tastes quite similar to the Prosciutto I ate when I lived in Italy. We noticed a big difference in food between Portugal and Spain right away. Where Portugal was all about the seafood, Spain was all about tapas, meat and potatoes.
We really loved the Tapas style of eating. They are very small plates of food, and you typically order 4 or 5 to share between two people. This works great when you’re in a new country. It gives you the opportunity to try lots of different dishes for a very reasonable price. If you find something you really love, you can order another portion of it. As we wandered around the city, I loved walking down the street seeing all the oranges growing on the trees.
We visited the Real Alcázar de Sevilla on our first morning in Seville. What an incredible palace that dates back to the 11th Century. It is the oldest palace in Europe still inhabited by the royal family. The Islamic influence is evident every place you look.
Make sure you buy your tickets ahead of time. They sell out pretty much every single day. We made sure to be the first timed entry. It gets more and more busy as the day goes on. The Hall of the Ambassadors was such an amazing spot. It served as the throne room and main hall. This room is absolutely stunning. The intricate details are beautiful. All the gardens and the outer walls and buildings were beautiful as well. The estate also has several peacocks that roam the grounds.
After our morning visit we had a lovely lunch in a tapas restaurant. Then we took a ten minute walk over to the Plaza de Espana. This is surrounded by a massive park and is the perfect place to walk or sit and enjoy the scenery. While we were there, some couples were Flamenco dancing.
If you spend even a day in Spain, you will most likely come across croquettes on any menu you look at. These are present at every tapas joint you might find. I really enjoyed them. They were filled with all sorts of meats, veggies and cheeses. There were even a few places that had some dessert croquettes. Whether you like it or not, there are a lot of fried foods on tapas menus. We tried to balance our meal so we had some sort of fish and veggies to go with whatever fried food we had (usually croquettes).
The following day we set off on a day trip to Gibraltar. This is a unique place that is technically a British territory. There are several things that this small area is known for, tunnels and caves within The Rock of Gibraltar, Barbary Monkeys and St. Michael’s Cave. Thankfully we got to see all of them. It’s just a two hour drive south of Sevilla.
You must have a valid passport to entire Gibraltar, and you have to go through border control and customs. We had a private tour for the morning, which worked out really well. Our tour guide knew just where to take us and his suggestion to get on the road early really paid off. It was just starting to get busy when we finished seeing all the sights. The mountain off in the distance is in Africa.
The Barbary Monkeys are super curious and friendly. They will snatch food or electronics right out of your hand if you get too close to them. They’re the only wild monkeys in all of Europe. They came from the Barbary Coast in north Africa. Different stories say they were castaways on boats, others say they were brought intentionally by those who first settled in the region. They loved climbing all over our van anytime we stopped to see something.
There are two different sets of tunnels that run through The Rock of Gibraltar, The Great Siege Tunnels and the WWII Tunnels. Between the two networks, there are over 34 miles of tunnels. Super interesting to visit. There are frequent signs that explain the history. It’s an easy walk down but coming back up is a real leg burner.
There is a small town down at the bottom of the rock. It’s super expensive and everything is priced in British Pound. I recommend you wait and eat once you head back to Spain. If not, try and find something off of the main street that runs through town. Something super unique about Gibraltar is the way you enter and leave on foot. To do either, you have to walk across an active runway. We went by foot when we left, so we could experience this. It’s quite a long walk back to the parking which is on the Spanish side. Everyone said it’s not worth the hassle of driving your car into Gibraltar. The roads are tiny and you aren’t allowed to drive on certain streets if you aren’t a local. All in all, a super interesting day with lots to see.
After a much needed afternoon siesta, we headed back out around 8pm. Our entertainment for the evening was at Setas de Sevilla. It’s the largest wooden structure in the world. It was beautiful to look at from both above and below. We got there before it was dark outside and the whole thing completely changes. There is music to go along with the spectacular light show. The lines for this were extremely long, so make sure to book your ticket ahead of time. You get some of the light when standing on the ground below the structure, but once you go up top, it’s really stunning.
The next morning we slept in then headed about two hours southeast to a lovely little town called Ronda. This is a perfect day trip from Sevilla. I recommend heading down earlier in the morning then taking your time to do some walking/hiking along the bridges and cliffs. Afterwards you can enjoy a leisurely lunch in one of the nice restaurants in the central downtown area. Ronda is a mountaintop city that’s set dramatically above a deep gorge. This gorge (El Tajo) separates the city’s circa-15th-century new town from its old town, dating to Moorish rule (8th century). Puente Nuevo, a stone bridge spanning the gorge, has a lookout offering views. Plaza de Toros, a legendary 18th-century bullring, is one of the city’s most recognizable landmarks.
We took the scenic route back to Sevilla. It was a beautiful drive through the countryside. The different farming fields looked like a patchwork quilt.
Barcelona
The following morning we packed up and took a short flight to Barcelona. We stayed at a hotel for this leg of the trip. It was really nice having a giant breakfast buffet included every morning. Right away I noticed an interesting language twist. In Barcelona there are 3 languages spoken, Spanish, Catalan and English. It was strange seeing all three versions on street signs and in menus. On our first night there, we considered staying up late and checking out a Goth Club. It didn’t open until midnight but stayed open until 5am. We quickly decided we’re too old for that crap.
On our first morning there, we took a quick walk from our hotel and went on a tour of the Palau de la Música Catalana. Opened in 1908, it has become the most famous concert hall in all of Spain. Every musical act you can think of has performed here. It is so beautiful. The stained glass is mesmerizing. While on our tour, we found out that there was going to be a Flamenco performance that night. I was ecstatic, because that was something I wanted to experience while we were in Spain. We booked tickets and thoroughly enjoyed the performance. They didn’t allow photos or video during the performance, otherwise I would have shared that with you. Flamenco is an emotional, high energy and very passionate style of dance. The dancers have to have incredible stamina and I was so happy we got to see it, especially in such an amazing venue.
La Sagrada Família
On our second day in Barcelona, we visited one of the most remarkable places I’ve ever laid eyes on, La Sagrada Família (The Holy Family). It’s hard to put into words the emotions I felt during this visit. Awe, wonder and amazement don’t do it justice. This was our introduction into the fantastic, creative world of Antoni Gaudi. We would go on to see other works of his, but this is truly his masterpiece. Construction has been ongoing for 140 years and the basilica still isn’t finished. It is set to be completed in 2026, one hundred years after Gaudi’s accidental death.
A tour guide here is an absolute must. My only regret is that we didn’t book a private tour. This is the busiest location in all of Barcelona. Tickets to enter sell out months in advance, so book your tickets well in advance. Having a private tour would have made it easier to maneuver inside. You will miss out on so much information if you don’t go on a guided tour. As you will learn, everything that Gaudi built had deep religious meaning and nature was his muse in many of his creations. He did things that no one else would consider doing, and he created techniques that are still used around the world today. The way he angled walls and ceilings to reflect the light from the windows is breathtaking. Make sure that you get a ticket that allows you to go up in one of the towers. This will forever be one of my favorite places in the entire world.
The works of Antoni Gaudi are present nearly everywhere in Barcelona. We tried to visit as many of his creations as we could. I had a tour booked for Park Guell, but unfortunately it got cancelled due to a protest being held outside the park. Our next visit was to Casa Mila. This is the final completed project from Gaudi before his death in 1926. Many of the houses he built were for wealthy friends who gave him liberties to do whatever he wanted.
His biggest influence in the private residences he built, was nature. He especially loved water and all things that grow outside. He loved disguising things in sculptures. Below you can see how he turned chimney’s into different statues.
Next we visited Casa Vicens. This was Antoni Gaudi’s very first house that he designed and built. His friend gave him free reign to do whatever he wanted. It took only two years to complete and the family moved in during 1886. Every room had a different, intricate ceiling.
Casa Batlló was our final Gaudi creation to see. It took two years to build from 1904-1906. Gaudi was in high demand at the time and the family told him that he could do whatever he wanted. Water, it’s color, movement and wildlife were his primary inspiration.
I loved this location from the moment we arrived. The outside had the most beautiful colors and such whimsy. I immediately thought of mermaids and a fantasy world under the sea. The roof looks like fish scales. Gaudi was inspired by dragons for his rooftop design. There are 27 chimneys hidden in the various sculptures. There were giant plates of glass throughout and when you looked through them, he wanted it to invoke a feeling of being underwater.
We wrapped up our last morning in Barcelona with a nice meander through Parque de la Ciutadella. In 1714, a citadel was placed on these grounds, with various areas and structures being added in the centuries to follow. The wild parakeets are about five times bigger than what we have in the states, and you could find them all over the park. We entered from the northwest end, passing through Barcelona’s Arc de Triomf, built for an exhibition in 1888.
So, last but not least, let me talk a little bit about the food we enjoyed while in Barcelona. You can expect to see tapas on pretty much every menu you see. Barcelona also traditionally eats dinner very late at night. Some restaurants don’t open until 8pm. It was bizarre to be coming home from something at 11pm and all the restaurants were packed with people eating dinner. The first photo below is the best Jamón Ibérico we ate during our trip. It was sliced paper thin and wasn’t cooked. It melted in your mouth, so good.
Jamón Ibérico
Fresh burrata with pumpkin puree
Fresh churros with hot chocolate
Patatas Bravas- the most popular tapas dish in Spain. We tried 5 or 6 versions.
Artichoke with Jamón Ibérico
Crema Catalan- one of Spain’s favorite desserts, very similar to crème brûlée but heavier on the egg yolk.
I recommend once you find something you love, stick to it. Chocolate croissants or Pain au Chocolat as they’re called in French rarely disappoint. They’re called chocolatine or napolitana in Spain.
Braised tuna with peppers
Baguette with chorizo and queso blanco
Artichoke with tuna
We found a fabulous steak place. They lightly sear your steak then you cook it to the temp you want on a sizzling stone. We went there twice it was so good.
Chicken Paella, finally found one I could eat. Most paellas are filled with various seafood. Being allergic to shellfish made it difficult to find one I could enjoy.
Overall, our time spent in Spain was fantastic. We saw so many beautiful places and enjoyed fabulous food. The people were nice and the city was very clean and safe. I would definitely go back there again. We still have more than another dozen Gaudi sights to explore. Enjoy!